educational

A Few Pointers on Watches

Wearing it Well: Care and Handling Tips

Wind-up watches, nearly extinct a decade ago, have gotten a second wind. More consumers are being lured by the old-world craftsmanship of fine mechanicals than at any time since the quartz age began. But manual watches need special care and handling. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions that came with the watch, but keep these tips in mind:

It’s best to wear a mechanical watch every day. If you can’t, try to wind it three times a week to keep the wheels in motion and the oil fluid.
When winding the watch (including self-winding watches) turn the crown until you meet resistance.
Be aware that your automatic watch will stop after two or three days if it is not worn. To get it running again, wind it as you would a wind-up watch.
Try to wind your watch at the same time every day. Such regularity is good for the mechanism. The best strategy is to set a routine; for example, winding it every morning before putting it on.
When setting the time, always turn the hands in a clock- wise direction.
Always set the day and/or date on a day-date watch during the day. The day-date mechanism is activated over several hours at night. Making an adjustment at that time could jam the mechanism.
A fine mechanical watch is a sophisticated precision instrument. For maximum efficiency, and to prevent damage, it needs regular checkups. A watch should be serviced every three to four years, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Check your watch to see if it is labeled “Water Resistant.” If it is not, avoid all contact with water.
Never wear a mechanical watch while playing golf or tennis. Arm speeds in excess of 70 miles per hour can damage the movement.

Service Break: Time Out for Your Watch

Remember the scene in “The Wizard of Oz” when Dorothy and friends get a head-to-toe sprucing up in the Emerald City? Something like that happens to your watch when you take it in to be serviced.

First the watch is opened and the movement removed. It is taken apart, down to the very last screw, and the parts are checked for wear. Replacements are made where necessary. Then the parts are cleaned, reassembled and relubricated. The movement is regulated. The watch (if water resistant) is checked for water-tightness. The case and bracelet are polished. Presto: a watch that’s as good, or nearly as good, as new.

Why put your watch through all that if it’s still working fine? There are some very good reasons. First, the oil that keeps your watch running smoothly (and is just as important to it as 10W30 is to your car) will break down over time. Unlubricated, watch parts can be abraded by friction. The problem can get even worse: Friction can create a microscopically fine dust that will itself act as an abrasive. Another reason is that watches, as one watch expert describes it, “breathe” – they expand and contract in response to hot and cold, allowing dust-carrying air to enter the case through microscopically fine cracks. This is true even of water-resistant watches, whose case-back and crown openings are protected by gaskets.